Taking a flight to California Wine Country

Thanks to my Google Analytics obsession, I've noticed that I have a whole bunch of readers from states outside California, from Canada, the UK, and elsewhere. So I thought to help those people out I'd post about how to get here by plane.



If you want to fly here directly, in a word, it will be expensive. Wine Country's airport is the Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport, coded as STS. You can see their website at http://www.sonomacountyairport.org/. There's a single commercial airline that flies there--Horizon Air. Horizon is a subsidiary of Alaska Air, partnered with American Airlines, a member of the OneWorld alliance. So if you collect miles on that system, lucky you. Personally, I'm a member of United's Star Alliance, so I can't collect on any flights out of this airport. You can fly here from Seattle, Portland, LA and Las Vegas (see map). Importantly, however, this airport is in Sonoma County. If you're staying in Yountville, or somewhere else in Napa, it could take you over 1 hour to get to your hotel from this airport! Many visitor don't realize just how distinct Sonoma and Napa valleys are--there are very few roads that traverse the hills between them (so you mostly have to go around). So if you land during rush hour, yikes. If you're visiting Santa Rosa, Sonoma, Healdsburg or the Russian River, this airport works great. Take a look at the flight schedule here.


You can also fly into the Sacramento International Airport. The airport is on the western side of the city, so you won't even hit capitol city traffic on your way. This airport is more realistic for those visiting Napa County. The drive to Sonoma is just too far. The Denver-Sac flight I think is pretty reliable, so this may be a good option. It's a small airport, so the craziness that you'll get at SFO (and somewhat in OAK) won't be a factor here.


Lastly, try the major Bay Area airports, SFO and OAK. They have the greatest volume of flights, so there's convenience there. Both are approximately equidistant from Sonoma and Napa. Flying into San Jose, SJC, you'll be driving for up to 3 hours in rush hour...so skip it.

Good luck to all--feel free to comment.

Day Trips in Wine Country--a review

Been obsessing over Google Analytics lately, and noticed that the most frequently clicked tag is "Day Trips". I guess a lot of people from the Bay Area have been coming up just for the day. It makes sense given the complete tanking of the economy--hotels are expensive here. Anyhow, I thought I'd write a little summary of my relevant "Day Trip" posts so you can browse at your leisure

Avoiding the Corny side of Napa. I think this one speaks for itself.
Picknicking in style. We're running out of time this year for outdoor picnics, but it's been pretty nice in the last couple of weeks.
Scenic Drives. Works for cycling too!
Drinking and Driving. How to avoid that pesky little problem.
Day Trip vs. Overnighter. Some stats and suggestions.
Free Tastings with Visa Signature. I believe you only have until December 2008 for this one...

COPIA: a guest posting perspective

I've written about COPIA here in the past--here's a perspective, from none other than my mom and dad!

COPIA, the American Centre for Wine and Food, is Napa Valley's best-kept secret. Billed as a "cultural museum and education center dedicated to the discovery, understanding, and celebration of wine, food and the arts in American culture", COPIA is much more than a museum, encompassing a first-class restaurant (more on that in a moment), a bistro for less-expensive foods and a unique all-you-can-drink wine-tasting atrium where wines are dispensed from four-bottle machines using electronic cards.

COPIA also boasts 45-minute food and wine educational seminars at nominal cost, galleries and interactive displays that provide entertaining snippets of historical information about (what else?) food and wine.

Lunch at COPIA's main restaurant is an experience. Named Julia's Kitchen, after Julia Child, you'll love the delicious, though somewhat limited selection of foods. For lunch, we tried the gorgonzola-peach appetizer salad with juicy peaches grown on the premises. It was August 15—Child's birthday. The menu featured a pricey four-course lunch using Child's own, original recipes. The vegetarian risotto and tuna salad off the main menu were good choices. Although Julia's Kitchen was not full when we visited, reservations for dinner are recommended. Lunch for two, including appetizers came to $60 with excellent, friendly service.

Complimentary wine-tasting was provided by a COPIA volunteer the day we visited. You can also go to the service desk and request a free wine-tasting card for a local winery. But note that complimentary wine tasting are few and far between in Napa these days, unless you drive out to some of the more remote wineries.

On COPIA's spacious second floor, visitors can play with creative and amusing interactive displays, learning the origins of a variety of vegetables and other foods as well as popular manufactured foods including potato chips and Kool-Aid.

Care to know more? Visit http://www.copia.org.

The Crush has arrived--it's harvest season in wine country. Here's how you can participate as well!

This is definitely the best time of year (although it's been quite cool the last few days). Generally starting in the early evening winery workers begin to head out into the field to cut the grapes off the vine and prepare them for the aptly-named Crush. I just signed up with some work colleagues to crush some Syrah next weekend...and then we'll pick up the finished cases of wine in January 2010. It's quite exciting, really!

Anyhow, you're probably wondering, as a visitor, how to participate in the Crush as well. Here's the best solution: a couple of the major wineries have "Crush camps" where you can come pick some grapes and learn a lot about the wine as well. I would recommend the Sonoma County Grape Camp, but it looks like they're sold out for 2008. They do post cancellations on their website, so check back (they have two spots up right now, 8pm on Sept 12). Although the badly-updated website at St. Supery doesn't tell the whole tale, they generally have a one-day camp as well. Call them for details, I have heard good things. As well: according to Fodor's online, Ravenswood has a course as well. Email Peter.griffith@ravenswood-wine.com to make some Zinfandel.

Practical advice: how to remove wine stains

Well, I guess we're going to file this post under "obscure". It has nothing to do with exploring wine country, but believe it or not I get asked this question frequently. When you live up here, people ask you lots of wine-related questions, including "does Rosé have Roses in it?" and other such things. Alright, enough preamble, here's the goods:

1. Carbonated Water, aka Seltzer for you Easterners (thanks Google Analytics for informing me that a good number of you actually visit my blog!). This method requires vigorous rubbing, but works pretty well.
2. Salt. I owe this one to my undergraduate chemisty professor, Dr. Len Fine. Salt creates an osmotic gradient, drawing the wine out.
3. Shaving Cream. This one is beyond me, but it works.
4. White Wine. Always a pleasant surprise, but Chardonnay will remove Syrah.

Any others? Let me know if you have a good old home remedy :)

Off in the woods: some of Wine Country's best restaurants can be found in out-of-the-way-places!

Much has been written about the big bad restaurants of Yountville--French Laundry, Redd, Bistro Jeanty and Bouchon. And if you've planned your trip to wine country far enough in advance, you may actually be lucky enough to get a reservation (last I heard, French Laundry requires 3 months notice). There's no doubt that the sheer concentration of Michelin stars is impressive, but is there anywhere else that you can go to find a delicious meal? I've compiled a short list of restaurants that are lesser-known, out-of-the-way, and absolutely delicious!

1. Applewood Inn ($$$). This is an example of the many tucked-away restaurants in the Russian River district of Sonoma County. Guerneville is a quiet town that is just starting to come into its own with some fantastic dining spots, although taquerias and burgers still dominate the town's culinary offerings. The cuisine is fairly standard French-Californian, but the freshness of the ingredients definitely stands out. "Secluded" and "romantic" are words often used to describe this restaurant. The vegetarian options, as well, are outstanding. Service is passable...but you're here for the food. There's an inn here too, so you may just want to make a whole night of it!
2. The Farmhouse ($$$$). Alright, most of my readers will inform me that this restaurant is far too well-known to make it on this list. But the truth is that due to it's secluded location in Forestville (Russian River), most people pass it by. This is the most truly outstanding restaurant in Sonoma County. Definitely a great place for a couple to dine together. Desserts get the ravest of rave reviews, and the service is warm and welcoming (not always what you find in top-notch places). Not to be missed.
3. Russian River Pub ($). Proof that delicious restaurants don't have to be expense, RRP gives a really feel for local flavor. Lots of interesting people here, more than the usual bland crowd at the expensive places. Mozarella sticks, burgers, lots of good, solid food here. Also in Forestville. Not to be confused with the Russian River Brewpub in Santa Rosa (4th street, downtown), which is also a hell of a good time. Try the IPA.
   
4. Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen ($$$). A block off the main road in St. Helena, CBK is built out of an old Victorian home. Great little bar, delicious food, and an unpretentious atmosphere. Mushroom Tamales--wow. Wholeheartedly recommend this place.
5. Julia's Kitchen @ Copia ($$$$). Named for culinary legend Julia Child, Julia’s Kitchen has been touted by several critics as an essential Napa destination. The current summer menu is as light and delicious as you'll find anywhere, and it's conveniently located in the heart of Napa.
   

The Infamous "Potter Schoolhouse" in Bodega

Along with the other perks of visiting the quaint coastal town of Bodega Bay (note: check the weather forecast before you come, the fog can be stifling), one can visit the schoolhouse featured in the 1963 Alfred Hitchcock movie "The Birds". The schoolhouse itself is actually situated in the town of Bodega, 5 miles east of the coast on highway 12. It is in fact a private residence, but the owners usually open up (including a gift shop) on nice weekends. They can be cajoled into a tour as well, expect to pay a few dollars. You'll want to contact the owners first before you go. This site is definitely out-of-the-way unless you're already coming to the coast, but it is definitely worth the trip if you're a movie buff. I'd recommend making this a short stop on your way from Santa Rosa/Sebastopol to the ocean.

Excellent Winery in Anderson Valley

My colleagues at Wine Review Online hit the nail on the head in their review of the small, family-owned, Anderson Valley winery, Navarro. I'm reproducing some of their post here, but check out the whole post for a more complete report. It's definitely a hike to get here, but I think it's worth the trek.

My Anderson Valley darling of the moment, however, is Navarro Vineyards. An extremely small family run business, Navarro has been delivering at a very high standard since the 1970s. Almost all of its wines are sold direct, so the easiest way to find them is online at www.navarrowine.com.

Navarro was recently named Winery of the Year for the Western United States for its performance at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition (www.criticschallenge.com). Navarro took 11 awards, including two Platinums (for its 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $32, and its 2006 Cluster Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, $59) and three Golds.

Navarro has always had a measure of renown for its work with aromatic whites such as Gewurztraminer and Riesling, but more recently has gained recognition for its reds. The Cabernet displays exceptional concentration and persistence of flavor while maintaining impeccable balance, which is a somewhat unique feature in today's world of California Cabernet.

Best view from a winery in Sonoma County--and the wine isn't half bad either

Pairing good wine with sweeping vineyard views is not the easiest task, but Iron Horse Vineyards has got it down pat. This winery has a pleasant outdoor bar at the top of a hill with panoramic views of the surrounding hills, covered, at least at this time of year, with budding vines. Standing at the tasting bar, it was a difficult decision whether to chat with the pourer or turn around and gaze northward across the neighboring vineyards. The lines of palm trees at the top of the hill reminded me of Stanford University's Palm Drive--quite an memorable sight. I'm not sure what the scene would be like during the winter months, though. It looked like they had a temporary enclosure prepared around the tasting bar for whenever the weather gets inclement. One negative--the winery is missing a picnic area to sit and enjoy your wine with a small snack.

Iron Horse makes both sparkling and still wines, so it's a nice mixture for early in the afternoon. As at many other local wineries, Iron Horse makes a trendy Rose de Pinot Noir which was quite tasty. Their un-oaked chardonnay was excellent as well.

Also--another great feature of this winery is their free tastings with the Visa Signature card, something I've blogged about before.

Cheers!

Avoiding the corny side of Napa: finding the hidden gems of the Napa Valley

A few tips to help you see the real, authentic beauty of Napa Valley and avoid those cliche moments. This blog post is culled from my own experience and those of other bloggers.

1. Come in the middle of the week. I almost feel like this piece of advice is like Barack Obama's suggestion that we should all keep our tires inflated to save on gas. It's so obvious, and works so effectively to avoid the crowds. People living and working in the Bay Area may not be able to get away from Monday-Friday, but out of town visitors should be able to swing it. Plan your San Francisco itinerary so that you visit wine country during the week.


2. Avoid the Wine Train at all costs. Yes, there are benefits, including not having to drink and drive. But if you're drinking that much wine you're not tasting it anymore, are you? The Napa Valley Wine Train is incredibly overpriced and skips all the little interesting wineries along the way. Hilariously, their website says that "numerous wineries can be seen through the large picture windows on board the Wine Train." Trust me, that isn't the way you want to see Napa Valley. Instead, try cycling with a company like Napa Valley Bike Tours . A one day hybrid bike rental is only $30.
   
   For those who haven't been here before--wineries are literally one next to the other on roads like Silverado Trail and Highway 28. So cycling from winery to winery isn't just beautiful, it's incredibly easy. The roads are largely flat, especially if you wanted to take the same route as the Wine Train. Honestly, no matter what your fitness level, cycling is more enjoyable than the Wine Train.


3. After you've done the wine thing, try out some other natural product the region has to offer, like visiting an olive or apple orchard. Take a look at this New York Times article about olive oil, for example. McEvoy Ranch is probably the largest olive grower, but there are definitely others. If you're here in the summer or early fall, you'll definitely want to sample fresh produce at a local farmer's market.
   


4. Have a picnic (with your farmer's market goodies). All the instructions are here.

Good luck, and have a great time in Napa County!

The General's Daughter (Sonoma) to close on 1 Aug

Foodies have been eating with delight at The General's Daughter in Sonoma for many years. However, sonomanews.com is reporting that the Sonoma County mainstay will close on Aug 1 and will be replaced by a new restaurant, Estate, in the same location. Owner Sondra Bernstein, who also runs the well-liked local restaurants The Girl and the Fig and Fig Cafe, said that the Estate menu will explore the realm of Italian-Mediterranean food. Should be delicious...although it's sad to see The General's Daughter go.

Picnicking in Style: a how-to guide for visitors who want to eat on-the-go in Napa or Sonoma

As a wine country resident, people frequently ask me for advice about picnicking (mostly for lunch) while they're visiting wine country. It's no secret that even for lunch the restaurants in the area are fairly pricey--you're paying a premium for the ambiance. That's evident in Healdsburg and Napa more than anywhere else. But never fear--picnicking is a viable option, can save you a chunk of cash, and will allow you to enjoy the beautiful scenery. To do it well, you'll need (1) a healthy and delicious food shop, and (2) a comfortable place to eat.

Buying picnic food

A whole bunch of wineries have food stores where you can buy the prototypical wine country foods--wine, cheese, meats, baguettes, olives and fresh veggies. My favorites are:

• Chateau St. Jean (Sonoma)
• V. Sattui (Napa)
• Oakville Grocery (not a winery, but a great store in both counties)
• Whole Foods (delicious deli takeout, very wide selection)
• Ledson Winery (Sonoma)

Eating Comfortably
If you're sitting on the grounds of a winery to eat lunch, it is generally proper etiquette to have purchased a bottle of their wine to complement the food. Of the wineries listed above with excellent delis, I most enjoy the wine at Chateau St. Jean (I have also posted to this effect on the TripAdvisor Sonoma forum, a great local resource). The wineries listed above also have space to sit and eat, although watch out for the loud and annoying Wine Train driving by V. Sattui. A picture of the picnic area at V. Sattui is shown at right. There are also beautiful town greens in Santa Rosa, Napa and Sonoma, although this doesn't give you the "eating amongst the vines" feel.

Good luck, and happy picnicking!

Been away for a couple of weeks while traveling, but I have a really useful link for my readers today from my friends at winecountry.com. Click the link to see an interesting wine tasting itinerary for one of the least touristed areas in Wine Country, Alexander Valley. This area is just north of Healdsburg (see a map), which means it's somewhat further away from the SF area than other spots. But if you've been to Wine Country once or twice before, you'll definitely want to make the hike up to the Alexander Valley. Couple of notes about the itinerary given in the link:

• Rosso & Bianco--if you really like their wines, you can try their restaurant in downtown Palo Alto as well. Both are run by well-known director Francis Ford Coppola.
• Stryker--the zin is fantastic. This general area is known for Zinfandel as well.

Happy tasting!

Insider Secrets--Sonoma County

Thought I'd share with you another of my favorite sites--the Local Secrets section on Insider's Sonoma County. I try a new "local secret" every month or so. Here's one post they definitely got right: best winery hike is at Bartholomew Winery in Sonoma. On a clear day you can actually see the golden gate bridge, a real treat. Obviously, going during the harvest season makes the walk even more pleasant, as you can see the grapes growing on the vines. There's also a museum, which I can't comment on because I haven't been there.

Plenty of space here for a picnic, although I wouldn't come out of your way for the wines, which are average. Overall, I think the scenery is quite good and worth a look for those who want that vineyard-hiking experience. There are some pictures from a fellow blogger, here.

It's Farmer's Market Season!

Although primarily a grape-growing region, Napa and Sonoma counties are known for growing delicious produce of all types. Olives and olive oil are becoming a major draw of late (here's one in Marin County to visit). But organic produce of all types is available for general consumption. If you're just visiting, you'll probably only experience the freshness in the many excellent local restaurants. But for local's like myself, the many farmer's markets each week provide all the fresh veggies we need!

Probably the biggest of the summer season is in downtown Santa Rosa (4th Street between B and D), on Wednesdays. See more information. This year (2008) is actually the 20th anniversary of the market, so there will likely be some additional festivities.

The other major farmer's market in the area is in the town of Napa. It runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays, so it would be ideal browsing for a weekend trip. Even if you don't have cooking facilities while you're visiting, I promise you'll find the best nectarine or peach you've ever had...and you can finish it while you walk!

Community Supported Agriculture is another interesting produce-related topic...but I'll leave that for another post. Many farms also give tours and tastings as well, in the wine country spirit. Thanks for reading!

Hiking the classic wine country landscape

Too many people visit Napa and Sonoma valleys without really experiencing its beauty. To do that properly, climb into the hills on one of many available hiking trails to get a sweeping panorama of the region. Hiking can be easily "paired" with wine tasting if you set off on your hike early in the morning. The mornings are cooler and less busy, and leave you the afternoon to taste to your heart's content.

If there's one hike that typifies the classic wine country landscape, it's Jack London State Historic Park. Right around the corner from Glen Ellen on Highway 12, the trails and scenery here do not disappoint. You can see the location on a map here. There are quite a few trails available, and Bay Area Hiker has a 10.3mi recommended loop (feel free to browse this site for other local hikes--this is one of my most frequently visited sites). For a shorter hike, try the 1mi loop to the ruins of Wolf House and London's grave, and there are loops of intermediate length you can try as well. In the late summer and early fall, I recommend doing this hike nice and early in the morning. Stop in Glen Ellen or Sonoma for a quick lunch and then use the rest of your day for tastings.

What are the most scenic drives in California wine country?

Highway 29 is definitely the most legendary road, and the one most frequently traveled by visitors. It has excellent access to many famous wineries, and for much of the route, parallels the Wine Train route. The road can certainly get congested on weekends, and slows considerably when passing through Napa and St. Helena. Most people only take 29 up to Calistoga, although it continues up to exceedingly beautiful Clear Lake.

I think there are several other stunning routes in wine country. Here are some recommendations to help you beat the traffic. Note: with $5 gas well on the way, you may want to pick up a hybrid!

Silverado Trail. This road runs parallel to Hwy 29, so it's a better option if you're traveling the route between Napa and St. Helena. There's less traffic here, and the views are just as sweeping. There are also a couple of major wineries along this road, including Clos du Val, Stags Leap, Mumm (sparkling) and Clos Pegase (a perennial favorite). I've found that driving just under the speed limit on Cruise Control gives the perfect balance between covering ground and taking in the scenery. Silverado Trail does skip Yountville, however, so you'll need to take a left at Yountville Cross Rd. in time to make your reservation at French Laundry.

Dry Creek Rd. Take a look at the map below. Starting from historic and bustling Healdsburg, this road winds north through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley. The wineries here, famous for their Zinfandel, are as picturesque as any other. This route is a bit of the beaten path, and you're more likely to meet locals in the tasting rooms. You can take Dry Creek Rd. north out of Healdsburg, then make a right on Canyon Rd., go under the highway, and take another beautiful drive, Highway 128 to Calistoga. There are plenty of great wineries along the way.


View Larger Map

Chalk Hill Road. This is definitely one that most people miss. There are a bunch of wonderful wineries on this windy road--they're all quite small and generally require you to call ahead for an appointment (free tasting with Visa Signature card). This is also an excellent connecting road between Highway 101 and Highway 128. Don't expect it to be a quick trip, though.

Free Tastings with Visa Signature Card

This has got to be one of the best-kept secrets out there--holders of Visa Signature Cards can get free tastings at a whole slew of Sonoma County wineries. Take a look at the details here, including a map of participating wineries. If you have a Visa with some sort of built-in rewards plan, it's likely to be a Visa Signature card. An example is shown at left--the VISA SIGNATURE indicator is right under the card number. For most wineries, it's 2 free tastings with one card. Tastings range from $5 to $15, so this can really save you a bundle of money. There's a pretty good mix of participating wineries as well, from large operations like Chateau St. Jean to tiny family vineyards like Rued who only make a couple thousand cases each year. This is definitely a great way to save money for those on a tight budget--I think I've visited about a dozen.

Note: I do not work for or have any affiliation with Visa. This is just a great secret that I think even most Visa Signature card holders don't know about!

Drinking and Driving

Now let's be honest--people come up to wine country primarily to taste wines. And wine+driving can definitely be a issue. Most wineries will have you sampling approximately 0.5oz of 4-6 different wines. So you'll be drinking about 3oz of wine (about 1 glass) at each winery. Don't let this stop you from tasting, however. It just means that you need to have a more deliberately planned trip that includes some time between winery visits to 'sober up'. Here are some tips to help you make it through a day of wine tasting:

1. Spend at least 1 hour at each winery. There's no need to rush through the tasting menu just to fit additional stops into your schedule. Take a walk outside the tasting room and enjoy the scenery. Mill Creek Winery, for example, has an idyllic outside seating area that's perfect for relaxing. The more time you take, the less tipsy you'll feel.
2. Take advantage of the water provided by the tasting room. Don't worry that you look like an amateur if you pour yourself a glass of water--that's what the professionals do to prolong their tasting day
3. Pour it out! Pretty much every tasting room has a jug to help you dispose of unfinished wine. If you're served a wine not to your liking, you don't need to drink the whole thing. Preserve your alcohol intake for the wines you actually enjoy!
4. Nothing goes better with wine than cheese and crackers! Pick some up at a local store and layer your tastings with cheese nibblings.
   

Day trip or Overnighter?

There's no doubt that California's wine country is one of America's most exclusive destinations. I get the feeling that many people struggle with the question of whether to stay overnight in the area or to drive up for the day. Let's take a look at the driving distances from various spots in the Bay Area. These numbers reflect typical times, expect quite a bit longer during rush hour. Notably, for people planning to come up for a weekend, coming in on a Friday afternoon and leaving on a Sunday afternoon is certain to be a longer trip.

From	To Napa	To Sonoma	To Santa Rosa
San Francisco	1h	1h	1h
Oakland/Berkeley	50m	1h	1h
Palo Alto	1h30	1h40	1h40
San Jose	1h35	1h45	2h
Sacramento	1h10	1h20	1h50
SFO	1h10	1h15	1h20

The Charles M. Schultz Sonoma County Airport serves wine country and is located just Northwest of the city of Santa Rosa (pop. 160,000). As of Summer 2008, the only airline that flies there is Horizon Air. You can catch flights from Vegas, LA, Portland and Seattle. This isn't a good option for most people, and I don't know a single person who has ever flown in. But it's an possibility.

Hotel prices? My only recommendation here is Priceline.com. Hotels in the whole region are definitely pricey, and can be in excess of $200/night for the simplest of accommodations. If you'll have a car with you, don't be shy about staying outside of the Napa-Calistoga axis and the town of Sonoma. Instead, you'll likely find cheaper prices in towns like Rohnert Park or Petaluma. And from there, it'll only be a 20 minute drive to the choicest wineries. Of course, if you want the true wine country experience and are willing to shell out a little extra, try The Vintage Inn in Yountville, where you'll also be steps away from triple-michelin-starred French Laundry (if you're on a graduate student income, you'd be more likely to visit the Compadres across the street).

Bottom line? If you're on a restricted budget, make your visit to wine country a day trip...