Saturday, August 23, 2008

Off in the woods: some of Wine Country's best restaurants can be found in out-of-the-way-places!

Much has been written about the big bad restaurants of Yountville--French Laundry, Redd, Bistro Jeanty and Bouchon. And if you've planned your trip to wine country far enough in advance, you may actually be lucky enough to get a reservation (last I heard, French Laundry requires 3 months notice). There's no doubt that the sheer concentration of Michelin stars is impressive, but is there anywhere else that you can go to find a delicious meal? I've compiled a short list of restaurants that are lesser-known, out-of-the-way, and absolutely delicious!
  1. Applewood Inn ($$$). This is an example of the many tucked-away restaurants in the Russian River district of Sonoma County. Guerneville is a quiet town that is just starting to come into its own with some fantastic dining spots, although taquerias and burgers still dominate the town's culinary offerings. The cuisine is fairly standard French-Californian, but the freshness of the ingredients definitely stands out. "Secluded" and "romantic" are words often used to describe this restaurant. The vegetarian options, as well, are outstanding. Service is passable...but you're here for the food. There's an inn here too, so you may just want to make a whole night of it!
  2. The Farmhouse ($$$$). Alright, most of my readers will inform me that this restaurant is far too well-known to make it on this list. But the truth is that due to it's secluded location in Forestville (Russian River), most people pass it by. This is the most truly outstanding restaurant in Sonoma County. Definitely a great place for a couple to dine together. Desserts get the ravest of rave reviews, and the service is warm and welcoming (not always what you find in top-notch places). Not to be missed.
  3. Russian River Pub ($). Proof that delicious restaurants don't have to be expense, RRP gives a really feel for local flavor. Lots of interesting people here, more than the usual bland crowd at the expensive places. Mozarella sticks, burgers, lots of good, solid food here. Also in Forestville. Not to be confused with the Russian River Brewpub in Santa Rosa (4th street, downtown), which is also a hell of a good time. Try the IPA.
  4. Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen ($$$). A block off the main road in St. Helena, CBK is built out of an old Victorian home. Great little bar, delicious food, and an unpretentious atmosphere. Mushroom Tamales--wow. Wholeheartedly recommend this place.
  5. Julia's Kitchen @ Copia ($$$$). Named for culinary legend Julia Child, Julia’s Kitchen has been touted by several critics as an essential Napa destination. The current summer menu is as light and delicious as you'll find anywhere, and it's conveniently located in the heart of Napa.

Monday, August 18, 2008

The Infamous "Potter Schoolhouse" in Bodega

Along with the other perks of visiting the quaint coastal town of Bodega Bay (note: check the weather forecast before you come, the fog can be stifling), one can visit the schoolhouse featured in the 1963 Alfred Hitchcock movie "The Birds". The schoolhouse itself is actually situated in the town of Bodega, 5 miles east of the coast on highway 12. It is in fact a private residence, but the owners usually open up (including a gift shop) on nice weekends. They can be cajoled into a tour as well, expect to pay a few dollars. You'll want to contact the owners first before you go. This site is definitely out-of-the-way unless you're already coming to the coast, but it is definitely worth the trip if you're a movie buff. I'd recommend making this a short stop on your way from Santa Rosa/Sebastopol to the ocean.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Excellent Winery in Anderson Valley

My colleagues at Wine Review Online hit the nail on the head in their review of the small, family-owned, Anderson Valley winery, Navarro. I'm reproducing some of their post here, but check out the whole post for a more complete report. It's definitely a hike to get here, but I think it's worth the trek.

My Anderson Valley darling of the moment, however, is Navarro Vineyards. An extremely small family run business, Navarro has been delivering at a very high standard since the 1970s. Almost all of its wines are sold direct, so the easiest way to find them is online at www.navarrowine.com.

Navarro was recently named Winery of the Year for the Western United States for its performance at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition (www.criticschallenge.com). Navarro took 11 awards, including two Platinums (for its 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $32, and its 2006 Cluster Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, $59) and three Golds.

Navarro has always had a measure of renown for its work with aromatic whites such as Gewurztraminer and Riesling, but more recently has gained recognition for its reds. The Cabernet displays exceptional concentration and persistence of flavor while maintaining impeccable balance, which is a somewhat unique feature in today's world of California Cabernet.

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Best view from a winery in Sonoma County--and the wine isn't half bad either

Pairing good wine with sweeping vineyard views is not the easiest task, but Iron Horse Vineyards has got it down pat. This winery has a pleasant outdoor bar at the top of a hill with panoramic views of the surrounding hills, covered, at least at this time of year, with budding vines. Standing at the tasting bar, it was a difficult decision whether to chat with the pourer or turn around and gaze northward across the neighboring vineyards. The lines of palm trees at the top of the hill reminded me of Stanford University's Palm Drive--quite an memorable sight. I'm not sure what the scene would be like during the winter months, though. It looked like they had a temporary enclosure prepared around the tasting bar for whenever the weather gets inclement. One negative--the winery is missing a picnic area to sit and enjoy your wine with a small snack.

Iron Horse makes both sparkling and still wines, so it's a nice mixture for early in the afternoon. As at many other local wineries, Iron Horse makes a trendy Rose de Pinot Noir which was quite tasty. Their un-oaked chardonnay was excellent as well.

Also--another great feature of this winery is their free tastings with the Visa Signature card, something I've blogged about before.

Cheers!

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Avoiding the corny side of Napa: finding the hidden gems of the Napa Valley



A few tips to help you see the real, authentic beauty of Napa Valley and avoid those cliche moments. This blog post is culled from my own experience and those of other bloggers.
  1. Come in the middle of the week. I almost feel like this piece of advice is like Barack Obama's suggestion that we should all keep our tires inflated to save on gas. It's so obvious, and works so effectively to avoid the crowds. People living and working in the Bay Area may not be able to get away from Monday-Friday, but out of town visitors should be able to swing it. Plan your San Francisco itinerary so that you visit wine country during the week.

  2. Avoid the Wine Train at all costs. Yes, there are benefits, including not having to drink and drive. But if you're drinking that much wine you're not tasting it anymore, are you? The Napa Valley Wine Train is incredibly overpriced and skips all the little interesting wineries along the way. Hilariously, their website says that "numerous wineries can be seen through the large picture windows on board the Wine Train." Trust me, that isn't the way you want to see Napa Valley. Instead, try cycling with a company like Napa Valley Bike Tours . A one day hybrid bike rental is only $30.

    For those who haven't been here before--wineries are literally one next to the other on roads like Silverado Trail and Highway 28. So cycling from winery to winery isn't just beautiful, it's incredibly easy. The roads are largely flat, especially if you wanted to take the same route as the Wine Train. Honestly, no matter what your fitness level, cycling is more enjoyable than the Wine Train.

  3. After you've done the wine thing, try out some other natural product the region has to offer, like visiting an olive or apple orchard. Take a look at this New York Times article about olive oil, for example. McEvoy Ranch is probably the largest olive grower, but there are definitely others. If you're here in the summer or early fall, you'll definitely want to sample fresh produce at a local farmer's market.

  4. Have a picnic (with your farmer's market goodies). All the instructions are here.
Good luck, and have a great time in Napa County!