Off in the woods: some of Wine Country's best restaurants can be found in out-of-the-way-places!

Much has been written about the big bad restaurants of Yountville--French Laundry, Redd, Bistro Jeanty and Bouchon. And if you've planned your trip to wine country far enough in advance, you may actually be lucky enough to get a reservation (last I heard, French Laundry requires 3 months notice). There's no doubt that the sheer concentration of Michelin stars is impressive, but is there anywhere else that you can go to find a delicious meal? I've compiled a short list of restaurants that are lesser-known, out-of-the-way, and absolutely delicious!

1. Applewood Inn ($$$). This is an example of the many tucked-away restaurants in the Russian River district of Sonoma County. Guerneville is a quiet town that is just starting to come into its own with some fantastic dining spots, although taquerias and burgers still dominate the town's culinary offerings. The cuisine is fairly standard French-Californian, but the freshness of the ingredients definitely stands out. "Secluded" and "romantic" are words often used to describe this restaurant. The vegetarian options, as well, are outstanding. Service is passable...but you're here for the food. There's an inn here too, so you may just want to make a whole night of it!
2. The Farmhouse ($$$$). Alright, most of my readers will inform me that this restaurant is far too well-known to make it on this list. But the truth is that due to it's secluded location in Forestville (Russian River), most people pass it by. This is the most truly outstanding restaurant in Sonoma County. Definitely a great place for a couple to dine together. Desserts get the ravest of rave reviews, and the service is warm and welcoming (not always what you find in top-notch places). Not to be missed.
3. Russian River Pub ($). Proof that delicious restaurants don't have to be expense, RRP gives a really feel for local flavor. Lots of interesting people here, more than the usual bland crowd at the expensive places. Mozarella sticks, burgers, lots of good, solid food here. Also in Forestville. Not to be confused with the Russian River Brewpub in Santa Rosa (4th street, downtown), which is also a hell of a good time. Try the IPA.
   
4. Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen ($$$). A block off the main road in St. Helena, CBK is built out of an old Victorian home. Great little bar, delicious food, and an unpretentious atmosphere. Mushroom Tamales--wow. Wholeheartedly recommend this place.
5. Julia's Kitchen @ Copia ($$$$). Named for culinary legend Julia Child, Julia’s Kitchen has been touted by several critics as an essential Napa destination. The current summer menu is as light and delicious as you'll find anywhere, and it's conveniently located in the heart of Napa.
   

Avoiding the corny side of Napa: finding the hidden gems of the Napa Valley

A few tips to help you see the real, authentic beauty of Napa Valley and avoid those cliche moments. This blog post is culled from my own experience and those of other bloggers.

1. Come in the middle of the week. I almost feel like this piece of advice is like Barack Obama's suggestion that we should all keep our tires inflated to save on gas. It's so obvious, and works so effectively to avoid the crowds. People living and working in the Bay Area may not be able to get away from Monday-Friday, but out of town visitors should be able to swing it. Plan your San Francisco itinerary so that you visit wine country during the week.


2. Avoid the Wine Train at all costs. Yes, there are benefits, including not having to drink and drive. But if you're drinking that much wine you're not tasting it anymore, are you? The Napa Valley Wine Train is incredibly overpriced and skips all the little interesting wineries along the way. Hilariously, their website says that "numerous wineries can be seen through the large picture windows on board the Wine Train." Trust me, that isn't the way you want to see Napa Valley. Instead, try cycling with a company like Napa Valley Bike Tours . A one day hybrid bike rental is only $30.
   
   For those who haven't been here before--wineries are literally one next to the other on roads like Silverado Trail and Highway 28. So cycling from winery to winery isn't just beautiful, it's incredibly easy. The roads are largely flat, especially if you wanted to take the same route as the Wine Train. Honestly, no matter what your fitness level, cycling is more enjoyable than the Wine Train.


3. After you've done the wine thing, try out some other natural product the region has to offer, like visiting an olive or apple orchard. Take a look at this New York Times article about olive oil, for example. McEvoy Ranch is probably the largest olive grower, but there are definitely others. If you're here in the summer or early fall, you'll definitely want to sample fresh produce at a local farmer's market.
   


4. Have a picnic (with your farmer's market goodies). All the instructions are here.

Good luck, and have a great time in Napa County!

Picnicking in Style: a how-to guide for visitors who want to eat on-the-go in Napa or Sonoma

As a wine country resident, people frequently ask me for advice about picnicking (mostly for lunch) while they're visiting wine country. It's no secret that even for lunch the restaurants in the area are fairly pricey--you're paying a premium for the ambiance. That's evident in Healdsburg and Napa more than anywhere else. But never fear--picnicking is a viable option, can save you a chunk of cash, and will allow you to enjoy the beautiful scenery. To do it well, you'll need (1) a healthy and delicious food shop, and (2) a comfortable place to eat.

Buying picnic food

A whole bunch of wineries have food stores where you can buy the prototypical wine country foods--wine, cheese, meats, baguettes, olives and fresh veggies. My favorites are:

• Chateau St. Jean (Sonoma)
• V. Sattui (Napa)
• Oakville Grocery (not a winery, but a great store in both counties)
• Whole Foods (delicious deli takeout, very wide selection)
• Ledson Winery (Sonoma)

Eating Comfortably
If you're sitting on the grounds of a winery to eat lunch, it is generally proper etiquette to have purchased a bottle of their wine to complement the food. Of the wineries listed above with excellent delis, I most enjoy the wine at Chateau St. Jean (I have also posted to this effect on the TripAdvisor Sonoma forum, a great local resource). The wineries listed above also have space to sit and eat, although watch out for the loud and annoying Wine Train driving by V. Sattui. A picture of the picnic area at V. Sattui is shown at right. There are also beautiful town greens in Santa Rosa, Napa and Sonoma, although this doesn't give you the "eating amongst the vines" feel.

Good luck, and happy picnicking!

It's Farmer's Market Season!

Although primarily a grape-growing region, Napa and Sonoma counties are known for growing delicious produce of all types. Olives and olive oil are becoming a major draw of late (here's one in Marin County to visit). But organic produce of all types is available for general consumption. If you're just visiting, you'll probably only experience the freshness in the many excellent local restaurants. But for local's like myself, the many farmer's markets each week provide all the fresh veggies we need!

Probably the biggest of the summer season is in downtown Santa Rosa (4th Street between B and D), on Wednesdays. See more information. This year (2008) is actually the 20th anniversary of the market, so there will likely be some additional festivities.

The other major farmer's market in the area is in the town of Napa. It runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays, so it would be ideal browsing for a weekend trip. Even if you don't have cooking facilities while you're visiting, I promise you'll find the best nectarine or peach you've ever had...and you can finish it while you walk!

Community Supported Agriculture is another interesting produce-related topic...but I'll leave that for another post. Many farms also give tours and tastings as well, in the wine country spirit. Thanks for reading!